It’s easy to miss this small storefront, just across the street from the Shed at the Dallas Farmers Market. And so far, it looks like most people have: Every time I’ve gone to Ka-Tip Thai Street Food, even during the peak pandemonium of a Saturday afternoon at the farmers market, I was just about the only one there.

But what is taking shape behind Ka-Tip’s tinted glass windows is one of the most exciting new restaurants in the city. George Kaiho and his wife, Yuyee Sakpanichkul Kaiho — two veterans of Tei-An, Dallas’ lauded Japanese restaurant — have put together a menu of astoundingly delicious, unadulterated regional Thai dishes unlike any I have found in D-FW.

This is the food Yuyee grew up eating in Bangkok, which she reproduces here with flawless technique, farmers market produce and key ingredients sent directly from her mother in Thailand. Order at the counter, grab a sunny yellow chair in the small dining room and prepare to have your mind blown: Even the dishes you thought you knew — hot-and-sour tom yum soup, pad Thai, a simple green papaya salad — taste like they’ve been shaken to life with a riot of new flavors.

Fiery, funky, sprightly with fresh herbs and rippling with complexity — this is food that will haunt you until you return to eat it again and again. In a city where Thai fare tends to be too sweet, too bland and too carelessly made, Ka-Tip is a small treasure.

See the full Dallas News article