These family-owned eateries around Texas are worth the drive
Texas is vast, and the decisions are wide open when hunger strikes on those long hauls across the state. Sure, you could pull up to the nearest drive-thru window (again), but there’s nothing boldest or grandest about a bag of fast food—especially when exceptional mom-and-pop restaurants are dishing up affordable comfort a little farther down the line. Whether you’re hankering for a taste of home or the meal less traveled, sometimes you just need to get out of the car and into a diner booth. Click the image below to see the 33 family-owned roadside joints.
NORTHWEST TEXAS
Dutchman’s Hidden Valley | Hamilton
Once you make your way past the old-fashioned dime-store candy shop up front, you’ll find a deli wonderland in the back where sandwiches are made on homemade bread with meats and cheeses that are sometimes cured and smoked on-site. One favorite is the Spicy Dutchman sandwich, featuring jalapeño-and-cheese beef summer sausage, pepper jack cheese, and chipotle-ranch dressing on toasted jalapeño bread. Or order the Wurst Plate, a sausage sampler with German potato salad, slices of house-smoked Gruyère, and bread. “We’ve become part of [our customers’] vacations and part of their history,” says owner Kara Chorenziak (pictured), whose family has owned the restaurant since 1983. “Oftentimes, their parents or grandparents brought them, so now they’re bringing their kids and grandkids.”
—Cynthia J. Drake 3408 N. US 281. 254-386-3018; dutchmans-hiddenvalley.com
Del Norte Tacos & More | Godley
Far more than another taqueria, this eatery dishes out breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a heaping serving of creativity. Take, for instance, the blackened shrimp tacos with spiced crema and cilantro slaw; the stacked enchiladas topped with ranchero sauce and a fried egg; the smoked chile relleno stuffed with brisket; and the grilled ahi tuna torta topped with spicy slaw, pickled onion, and guacamole (a once-in-a-while special). Owner-chef Chris Garcia, whose family’s Rio Grande Valley roots inform his flavor profiles, earned his stripes cooking at high-end Houston restaurants before opening this place near Fort Worth in 2008.
—June Naylor 101 N. State Highway 171. 817-389-2451; delnortetacos.com
Allen’s Family Style Meals | Sweetwater
Everyone simply called it Mrs. Allen’s when housewife and cook Lizzie B. Allen opened the front room of her Sweetwater home in 1952 to feed folks stopping by for lunch. Her meals—for which she charged either 75 cents or a dollar (there’s some debate among the old-timers)—became so popular that she began knocking out walls to add tables that year. She soon moved out, needing the whole house to accommodate kitchen and dining tables. Customers continue packing her place 66 years later to dig into platters of fried chicken and sides served family-style. Grandson Billy Allen, who started washing dishes for her during his junior high years, runs the restaurant today, serving chicken, potato salad, squash, red beans, green beans, buttered potatoes, okra and tomatoes, and greens just the way she did. “There weren’t any recipes—she just showed us how to do it,” Billy says, adding that his grandma worked until she passed away in 1985. In addition to chicken, the meat of the day might be pork ribs, meatloaf, or pot roast, and you can count on peach cobbler for dessert. “Once in a while, we’ll do a plum or cherry cobbler, but then customers ask for the peach,” Billy says.
—J.N. 1301 E. Broadway Ave. 325-235-2060
Woody’s Bar & Grill | Mineral Wells
You can’t miss Woody’s Bar & Grill. The old Quonset hut exterior features an image of the famous woodpecker above the door (it’s telling that this version of the bird appears to be smoking a stogie) and a fading red sign laying claim to the “best hamburger in Texas.” A dive of the first order, this joint with pool and shuffleboard serves as many as 350 burgers daily from its well-seasoned griddle. Order an ice-cold beer and a bowl of pickled jalapeños, carrots, and onion to eat with your oversized bag of Fritos, dig into a big bacon cheeseburger with a toasty bun, and listen to some Pat Green and Kid Rock on the jukebox. Just remember, it’s a bar—so expect varying amounts of smoke.
—J.N. 6105 US 180 East. 940-325-9817
Youngblood’s Cafe | Amarillo
Co-owner Tim Youngblood came to Amarillo in 1965 at age 14 after growing up in Durango, Colorado, left to study at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, and then returned to Amarillo where he eventually opened his restaurant. Youngblood’s has been in its downtown area location since 2013 and is famous for its Texas home cookin’, which means huevos rancheros and made-to-order omelets, topped with green chile sauce with your choice of filling.
—C.J.D. 620 S.W. 16th Ave. 806-342-9411; youngbloodscafe.com
Jake & Dorothy’s Cafe | Stephenville
Whether she’s greeting regulars or refilling glasses of iced tea, Kerry Roach keeps the coffee shop running just as it did when her folks opened it 70 years ago. Her dad, Jake, is credited with inventing a machine that cuts the popular waffle fries that arrive alongside crispy catfish, crunchy chicken-fried steak, and grilled onion-smothered hamburger steak. It’s tough, however, to pass up the golden onion rings, so you might as well order both. Just leave room for pie—customers often drive an hour or more just for some of the coconut meringue and chocolate cream.
—J.N. 406 E. Washington St. 254-965-5211
Long Draw Pizza | Terlingua
This small bar and pizza joint with big flavor sits above a rocky arroyo just beyond the desert community of Terlingua. Outward appearances suggest the building could have been manufactured as an Arctic research station, then accidentally dropped onto the desert floor. But once you step inside you’ll find all the friendly comforts of a neighborhood bar. The place features a few long tables and chairs that fill quickly with backpackers, tourists, and local community groups. Join the crowd or snag a prime seat at the tiny bar (make room; the more the merrier) where you’ll get an up-close view of the pizza-making process. Witness the ladling of owner Nancy Ziese’s special (and addictive) tomato sauce and the sprinkling of toppings. Then have a cold one and make new friends while waiting for your pizza to exit the oven. Try the crowd-pleasing Six Shooter, a pepperoni/sausage monster topped with the works. Ziese acquired the business in 1998 and has served pizza here for more than two decades, establishing staying power in a remote region that sees more than its share of nomads. So what’s the secret to her sauce? “You’d have to buy the place for me to tell you,” Ziese says, “and then only after your check clears the bank.”
—E. Dan Klepper 22790 FM 170. 432-371-2608
Miss Hattie’s Restaurant and Cathouse Lounge | San Angelo
Housed in a historic 1884 bank—one of the first permanent buildings in downtown San Angelo—Miss Hattie’s has a scintillating history: its now-covered underground tunnel once led to a bordello operated by a madam known as (you guessed it) Miss Hattie. San Angelo’s first female mayor, Brenda Gunter, owns the restaurant, which is known for its mesquite-smoked rib-eye topped with cilantro-horseradish sauce and its bacon-wrapped jalapeño appetizer. Operating a restaurant is “the best way in the world, particularly as mayor, to know what people are thinking,” Gunter says.
—C.J.D. 26 E. Concho Ave. 325-653-0570; misshattiesrestaurant.com
Cueva de Leon | Fort Davis
Whether carb-loading for cycling the Davis Mountains or simply satisfying a craving for some fresh-made Mexican food, head to Cueva De Leon, the 42-year-old cornerstone of Fort Davis eateries. Owner Lorina Wells opened the restaurant in 1976 in a back-street café. In 1982 she built the current location downtown. “The recipes I started using were from my mom,” Wells says. “She taught me how to make stuff like enchilada sauce, and the rest I just learned by tasting and improving.” Her signature plate features chiles rellenos, large savory chili peppers that are roasted, peeled, and stuffed by hand then dipped and fried in a crispy batter. “We’ve been doing them the same way for over 40 years,” Wells says. “It’s still our most popular dish.”
—E.D.K. 611 N. State St. 432-426-3801
Marfa Burrito | Marfa
Finding a restaurant in Marfa that’s consistently open can be a challenge. But even for off-season West Texas adventurers, there’s always Marfa Burrito. Just a hop, skip, and a jump up the road from trendy lodging El Cosmico is the little white house where diners enter the kitchen and rattle off their orders to cook and owner Ramona Tejada (en español, if you’d like). Plop down at a table on the patio or in the small dining room, gaze at the photos on the wall of Tejada with her fans Matthew McConaughey and Mark Ruffalo, and tear into the tastiest dang breakfast burrito you’ve ever had in your life—like the Primo, made with fried potato, cheese, and beans in a handmade flour tortilla. Cash only.
—K.K. 1515 S. Highland Ave. 325-514-8675
The J&P Bar & Grill | Comstock
The simple, almost comical “Eat Here” sign written in blue painter’s tape at the top of a tall pole outside the bar elicits curiosity in hungry travelers. Former truck drivers Jodie and Pete Gould and their son Duke, a mechanic who’d been cooking for his buddies out of the back room of this former convenience store, opened the place in late 2013. Most everybody now comes for the burgers—especially the Devil’s Burger, a combo of fresh ground beef, pepper jack cheese, grilled jalapeños, and homemade jalapeño mayonnaise served on an onion poppy seed ciabatta bun with a heap of house-cut fries. Sin never tasted so good.
—P.L. 32137 W. US 90. 432-292-4338
Neal’s Dining Room | Concan
Where better to enjoy comfort food than perched on a cliff overlooking the Frio River? Tom and Vida Thrift Neal established their riverside restaurant in 1926. Today, their great-grandson Chase Roosa runs the seasonal business, and old family photos give the space a homey feel. The menu includes the original chicken-fried steak and fried chicken recipes, along with sides like lima beans and corn on the cob. In summer, the best seats are at the picnic tables on the open-air patio, with views of rolling hills and rollicking tubers.
—Heather Brand 20720 State Highway 127. 830-232-5813; nealsdiningroom.com
Espresso Y Poco Mas | Terlingua
When native Texan Mimi Webb Miller (pictured) moved to Terlingua from California, she missed having a good cup of espresso. Locals and visitors hankered for a place to hang out, too. So she opened an open-air café (in addition to guest houses) that provided both, as well as breakfast and lunch. It’s an ever-evolving labor of love for Webb Miller and general manager/cook Noemi Aviles, who makes from-scratch pastries, breakfast burritos, salsa, and sandwiches like meatloaf and rotisserie chicken salad. They’re all served with views of the rugged Chisos Mountains under the shade of olive trees.
—Melissa Gaskill 45 Milagro Way. 432-371-3044; laposadamilagro.net
SOUTH TEXAS/GULF COAST
Lil Rita’s Grill House | Harlingen
When Sirikul Guerra, better known as Rita (pictured below), started this restaurant with her husband, Hector, in 1998, Thai cuisine was largely unknown in the region, and smoked brisket was the featured menu item. But Rita’s signature pad thai and pad wen sun noodle dishes quickly gained a loyal following. Today, Valley residents head to Lil Rita’s for their fix of flavorful curries, aromatic soups, and Rita’s off-menu extra spicy cashew chicken or shrimp. Lil Rita’s remains something of a mystery to the uninitiated. The incongruous name—nothing is grilled or barbecued, though you can still get a half-pound Angus beef burger—is part of the mystique. Due to Rita’s busy schedule in her other vocation as full-time mom, the restaurant opens only between 11:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. on weekdays, as well as on Friday nights, when it’s particularly packed. Rita cooks every dish herself, so regulars know to expect longer waits during busy times. They also know it will be worth it, as evidenced by the stream of customers who stop by the order window next to the kitchen to thank her in person for a meal well-prepared.
—Daniel Blue Tyx 410 E. Tyler Ave. 956-425-6242; lilritasgrillhouse.com
King’s Inn | Riviera
This Loyola Beach icon located shoreside of Cayo del Grullo and east of Riviera is about as authentic as it gets along the Gulf Coast. The sprawling seafood landmark evolved from a 1930s fishing pier and bait shop/snack shack called Orlando’s, a joint venture by locals Orlando Underbrink and Blanche “Mom” Wright. In 1945, cook Cottle Ware took over the place with his wife, Alta Faye, who changed the name to King’s Inn. Today, son Randy runs the place. Order from a list of standard seafood fare, like fresh Gulf shrimp, fried or broiled; all entrées and sides are served family-style. Try the Bombay Salad as a starter, a creamy curried avocado on an iceberg wedge with sliced tomatoes and a pickled pepper. And, gentlemen, don’t forget the house rules: remove your hats before dining.
—E.D.K. 1116 E. County Road 2270. 361-297-5265; kingsinnriviera.com
Schnitzel | Vidor
After Hurricane Rita ravaged the East Texas coast, German native Monica Herring was able to buy a building cheap and went about opening her hole-in-the-wall, cash-only restaurant to cook up some of her grandma’s recipes. With sister Ursula in the kitchen, wunderbar things are done with pork cutlets (schnitzel), beef stew, potato salad, purple sauerkraut, and sauerbraten (beef pot roast) that fellow Germans have driven from Houston to eat.
—M.C. 950 S. Main St. 409-239-3331
Rao’s Bakery | Beaumont
If you’re hunting for a towering slice of Italian cream cake with a strong, fresh cup of cinnamon-spiced coffee, possibly with a side of local gossip, look no further than the original Rao’s location in Beaumont’s Oaks Historic District. Open since 1941, this friendly little shop with long, glass-fronted cases holding exquisitely crafted cakes, tarts, and pastries buzzes with the happy chatter of young and old, fueled by the gregarious energy of owner Jake Tortorice, who’s often spotted hopping from table to table. With five stores in the region, Rao’s is also the primo spot for a lunchtime muffuletta, egg-and-olive sandwich, and an Italian soda—all testaments to the family’s Sicilian roots.
—J.N. 2596 Calder Ave. 409-832-4342; raosbakery.com
The Crawfish Hole | Winnie
This family-owned roadside joint has been serving up heaps of boiled mudbugs for more than a decade, but it’s open only during crawfish season (February through June), so get there when you can (and BYOB). The combo platter gives you a taste of just about everything on the menu: the signature crawfish, infused with spicy Cajun flavors, along with corn, potatoes, sausage, snow crab, and shrimp. No utensils are necessary for this seafood smorgasbord—just dexterous fingers, plenty of paper towels, and a hearty appetite.
—H.B. 510 Gulfway Drive. 409-296-9262
Nana’s Taquería | Weslaco
When Roxanna and Alfredo Treviño opened Nana’s Taquería just down the road from Estero Llano Grande State Park, it was just the two of them working out of the back of their house with a banner tied to a chain-link fence that advertised lonches—a variation on the taco, with bite-sized bread rolls in place of the tortilla. Seven years later, the delectable lonches are the same, but the formerly modest home has been transformed by Alfredo, a civil engineer, and daughter Roxy, an architecture student, into a “little piece of Mexico in the Rio Grande Valley,” Roxanna says. There’s ornate tile, vaulted ceilings, colorful murals, and a delightful outdoor patio where you can hear live Spanish music Tuesday through Friday evenings.
—D.B.T. 1802 S. International Blvd. 956-447-2798
Credits: Eric W. Pohl, Dave Shafer, Wynn Myers, Jennifer Boomer, Kenny Braun
From the October 2018 issue.